As part of my review of the latest version of Macromedia's Studio MX, I've been working with Dreamweaver MX to fix some of the really crappy CSS I had hand-coded, and generating some graphics with the beta of Freehand MX. I am, thus far, friggin' ecstatic. Of course, since the last pseudo-WYSIWYG web tool I worked with was GoLive 5.0, that's not a hard state to put me in.
Still, I'm really impressed thus far with the CSS editing capabilities of Dreamweaver. It makes me all that more nervous about the rumors that Microsoft is planning to acquire Macromedia.
A more fully fleshed-out review is pending; watch for a link here.